With Róbert Gilvesy, prepari g a rustic potato a d celery mash for the duck. Photo: Gergő Pejkó | Hair& bsp; & Makeup: Csilla Kiss | Stylist: Mó ika Laczkó We cooked a d i vited people we ge ui ely like to the table. Hu garia wi e rarely gets global co text. Gilvesy’s wi es do, because they share a structural la guage with some of Europe’s most respected volca ic regio s. Photos: Gergő Pejkó Gilvesy wi es a d their place o i ter atio al wi e lists Thi k Et a, Jura, or the Loire. The shift to Hu gary. Róbert Gilvesy makes wi e o Sze t György-hegy, a volca ic hill i wester Hu gary’s Balato wi e regio . His wi es are poured i ter atio ally across Europe, the UK, the US, a d parts of Asia, positio ed aturally ext to far more familiar ames. Sze t György-hegy is defi ed by basalt based volca ic soil, layered with clay a d mi eral sedime t. The climate is co ti e tal, with warm summers a d cool ights. This allows grapes to ripe slowly while retai i g acidity. The result is a style that tra slates easily beyo d Hu gary. Dry wi es harvested for structure rather tha aromatic ripe ess, with clear shape a d reliable agi g pote tial. Gilvesy Pixu Saba, a volca ic white from Sze t György-hegy, emphasizi g texture, acidity, a d restrai t. Photo: Gergő Pejkó What ki d of wi es these are Gilvesy works orga ically, with low yields a d a restrai ed cellar approach. Harvest timi g prioritizes acidity a d structural bala ce. Ferme tatio s are co trolled but ot ma ipulated. Oak is used i a restrai ed way, primarily for texture rather tha flavor. Ma y people describe these wi es as atural. Tech ically, they could sit comfortably o atural wi e lists. I practice, they fu ctio as clea , low i terve tio wi es built for food, ot for category sig ali g. They remai stable i the glass a d co siste t over the course of a meal, which is why they travel well i ter atio ally. Photos: Gergő Pejkó How they sit ext to world famous regio s Placed ext to Et a wi es, Gilvesy’s show a similar volca ic origi , but with a cooler, more restrai ed profile. Compared to Jura whites, the precisio a d dry ess feel familiar, without oxidative eleme ts. Next to top Loire whites, the emphasis shifts away from fruit toward structure. These compariso s are ot theoretical. O i ter atio al wi e lists, Gilvesy wi es sit aturally amo g these regio s. Photos: Gergő Pejkó Back to the di er O ce the guests arrived, the camera we t away.& bsp;The starter was a simple pumpki soup made from a mix of Hokkaido a d classic pumpki , seaso ed with thyme a d fi ished with roasted pumpki slices. The mai course was duck, cooked i wi e. No photos. We got distracted a d fi ished it before a yo e remembered the camera. Arou d the table were people who work daily with taste, editi g, a d judgme t: Nikolett Spe gler (Miele), & bsp;Lili Feigl (Miele), Eszter Felkai (BigBag PR), Soraya Gyö gy (jour alist), Róbert Izi g (Roadster Magazi ). The photos were take by Gergő Pejkó, who was also part of the di er. They reflect mome ts, ot docume tatio . Photos: Gergő Pejkó Food that made se se with the wi es The me u followed the same logic as the wi es. Clear, seaso al, built for the table. Radicchio was served with duck liver. Small, rich bites that did ot softe the bitter ess, o ly sharpe ed it. The duck was served with a rustic celery potato purée. The dish stayed focused a d grou di g, letti g the wi es hold their li e through the meal. Dessert was my ico ic glute free ora ge bu dt cake. Simple, fragra t, a d familiar. The ki d of fi ish that does ot i terrupt the wi e co versatio , it simply bri gs it to a close. We e joyed every part of it. Photo: Gergő Pejkó